Retinol and Retinal

INCI name

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Origin

animal, vegetable

What is this?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. To be precise, it is not technically “vitamin A,” but one of three available forms of vitamin A.

In cosmetology and dermatology we speak of "first generation retinoids": retinal, retinoic acid and retinol.

His action

Retinol has both an anti-aging and anti-blemish action on the skin. Indeed, vitamin A is important for activating the repair and regeneration capacities of skin cells.

It is therefore a cosmetic active ingredient that we will favor in the case of wrinkles, lack of firmness, stretch marks, or acne scars.

How it works

It “irritates” the skin to make it feel better. This powerful ingredient has the ability to stimulate collagen and promote cell renewal, by exciting skin cells. The skin first becomes red or irritated, which can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and acne.

Precautions for use

Retinol makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays . Any active skincare product should therefore be used in the evening, as it is photosensitizing if it contains vitamin A or its derivatives. The skin is more likely to react to the sun if applied in the morning. However, you can apply a facial sunscreen on top if necessary.

Other Dangers of Retinol are skin irritation, redness and flaking. This can happen when it is dosed too high. Be careful though, if the skin reacts too strongly or for too long, stop or immediately reduce the dosage!

It is therefore advisable to gradually integrate it into your skincare routine, with a low dosage and frequency that can be gradually increased if the skin accepts it well.

Some extracts contain it naturally

Retinoids are also found naturally in some natural extracts. But it is almost never pure retinol. For example, in rosehip oil (rosa rubiginosa or rosa moschata). The oil contains provitamin A (beta-carotene). It does not contain pure vitamin A, but interesting levels of tretinoin or retinoic acid are found in its compounds. This acid is a conversion of retinol, and can therefore be assimilated to retinol for its effects on the skin or the body.

For what skin types?

Retinol is suitable for mature skin, but also for younger and oily skin, prone to imperfections. It is not recommended for sensitive and atopic skin.

Want to discover this noble ingredient? Find out here are all our retinol and retinal-based treatments.

sources: "The truth about cosmetics" by Rita Stiens, slow-cosmetique.com